My day-long mission to track down the new Metro Line #2 took me all over the map, but it wasn't all back alleys and "worst of the worst" neighborhoods. Every now and then, the urban grit gave way to something grander.
Case in point: The National Palace.
I’ve driven or walked past the seat of the Executive Branch dozens of times, but I’ve always been in too much of a hurry to actually stop. This time, I finally paused to catch it on camera. It’s an imposing piece of architecture, but the history beneath the foundation is what really sticks with me.
There’s a bit of irony in these walls: the Palace actually stands on the grounds of the old Presidential Mansion—a building constructed by the U.S. Military during the 1916–1924 occupation (not to be confused with our later "visit" in the mid-sixties). Standing there, you realize that in Santo Domingo, even the most polished government buildings are built on layers of complicated, messy history.
It was a brief moment of symmetry in a day spent chasing the future of the city's transit, but a necessary stop. Now, back to the hunt for that Metro line...
I didn’t set out to write a thesis on Neoclassical architecture today, but in Santo Domingo, sometimes you just have to roll with where the streets lead you. If the National Palace is the city’s architectural heavyweight, the Palace of Fine Arts is a close second. It’s an objectively gorgeous building, but it carries that same complicated shadow: it’s another relic built under the brutal dictatorship of Rafael Trujillo.
It’s a strange contrast to live with. I’m currently staying just two blocks from the Museum of the Dominican Resistance, and while I’m not heading back inside on this trip, the memories of my last visit are still vivid. "Informative" doesn't quite cover it; "horrifically shocking" is closer to the truth. If you ever find yourself in this city, you have to go. It’s the only way to understand the scars beneath the beautiful facades. (Check them out here: museodelaresistencia.org)
I could go on all day, but it’s hard to compete with the extremes of the best architecture and the worst of history. So, I’ll leave it there for now.
Hasta maƱana...
P.S. On a much lighter (and life-saving) note: the stray dog factor here is basically zero. After literally fearing for my life while being chased by a pack of wild dogs in Colombia, believe me—this is the kind of travel intel that actually matters!

Ah, the dogs. Brings back fond memories of fearing for my life in Valparaiso, not to mention the smell of excrement there. Not the Dominican, but here are our dog ratings for select South America cities (often a little generous).
ReplyDelete--Brazil--
Manaus, 2 dogs (gotta start somewhere in the middle)
Tefe, 1 dog
Sao Luis, 1.5 dogs
Salvador, 2 dogs
Itacare, 3.5 dogs
Rio de Janeiro, 2.5 dogs
Uruguay--
Montevideo, 2.5 dogs
Colonia, 3 dogs
--Argentina--
Buenos Aires, 2.5 dogs
San Martin, “the Bone Standard”, 4 plus dogs
Ushuaia, 3 dogs
--Chile--
Pucon, 3.5 dogs
Valparaiso, minus 1 dog
Santiago, 2.5 dogs
La Serena, 2 dogs
Chanaral, 1 dog
Arica, 1.5 dogs
--Peru--
Arequipa, 3 dogs
Yanque, 2 dogs
Cuzco, 3 dogs
Aguas Calientes, 2.5 dogs
Puno, 1.5 dogs
Pisco, 1 dog
Miraflores/San Isidro, 3 dogs
Lima, 2.5 dogs
Bob, I'm glad you caught that comment. It was directly for you. I always appreciated that tidbit in your blog ! :)
DeleteYou're doing some fine blog work here, amigo. Love the photos and doing a link to a musuem web page is a great idea. Keep up the great work.
ReplyDeleteIt's time consuming, but something that I have plenty of ! That museum is just over the top cool.
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